Eyestrap Repair

The Wobbly Eyestrap: A Vanguard 15 Fix

By the V-15 Tech Team

As any seasoned sailor knows, a wobbly mainsheet block isn't just an annoyance—it's a breakdown waiting to happen. On the Vanguard 15, particularly in hulls built before the fall of 1999, this is a common gremlin. The mainsheet ratchet eyestrap works loose, and no amount of tightening seems to fix it.

The good news? The repair is straightforward, and with the right approach, you can make this fitting stronger than it was when it left the factory.

The Anatomy of the Problem

To fix it, you have to understand what's happening below decks. The V-15 cockpit floor is a foam sandwich construction. In older boats, a wooden backing plate was embedded in the core to anchor the eyestrap bolts.

Over time, water finds its way past the bedding compound and infiltrates this wooden block. The wood softens (rot), and the washer and nut on the underside—which you can't easily reach—start to crush into the mushy core. The result? A loose eyestrap that pulls up every time you sheet in.



The Fix: Epoxy Injection


Since we can't easily replace the backing plate without major surgery, we're going to perform a minimally invasive procedure: drilling out the old fasteners, drying the core, and creating a solid epoxy column that will never rot.


Tools & Materials


Gather these supplies before you start. This is a classic "epoxy and fill" job.


    

  • Drill with 1/8”, ¼” bits and a Countersink bit
    • 

  • Heat Source: Hair dryer or heat gun
    • 

  • Epoxy System: West System or similar (The West System Maxi Repair Kit is perfect for this)
    • 

  • High Density Filler: Silica or similar thickener
    • 

  • Syringe: For injecting epoxy
    • 

  • Fasteners: (2) #10 x 1.5” pan head self-tapping screws
    • 

  • Solvent: Acetone for cleanup
    • 





Step-by-Step Procedure


1. Extraction


First, we need to remove the old hardware. Drill through the heads of the existing bolts.




Pro Tip: Grip the bolt heads with needle-nose pliers to keep them from spinning while you drill.




Once the heads are gone, pull the eyestrap off. Push the old bolt shanks through into the hull—you can fish them out later through an inspection port.


If you happen to damage the eyestrap during the grinding process, don't worry. It is a standard Harken eyestrap (Harken #137, Vanguard #10137) and is readily available at your local dealer.


2. Preparation


Use your countersink bit to ream out the top of the holes into an inverted cone shape.


    

  • Why? This increases the surface area for the epoxy bond and creates a "plug" shape that prevents the repair from being pulled out.
    • 



3. The Drying Phase (Critical)


This is where patience pays off. Use your heat gun or hair dryer to dry the exposed core material through the holes.




[!WARNING]
Do Not Overheat: Keep the surface temperature below 100°F (38°C). You want to evaporate the moisture, not delaminate the fiberglass skins. If in doubt, dry longer at lower heat.




4. Injection


Now we rebuild the core.


    

  1. Mask off the area with painter's tape to protect your non-skid.
    2. 

  2. Mix your epoxy with high-density filler. You're aiming for a consistency slightly thinner than peanut butter—flowable, but not runny.
    3. 

  3. Inject the mixture into both holes using the syringe. Fill them completely until a little excess squeezes out.
    4. 



5. The Cure & Re-install


Allow the epoxy to cure for 5 to 6 hours.


    

  1. Sand the epoxy flush with the deck.
    2. 

  2. Drill a 1/8” pilot hole into the center of your solid epoxy plugs.
    3. 

  3. Bed the hardware: Mix a small batch of unthickened epoxy. Drip a little into the pilot holes and dip your new screws in it.
    4. 

  4. Install the eyestrap with the #10 self-tapping screws. The epoxy on the threads will seal the hole and lock the screw in place.
    5. 



6. Finish


Clean up any squeeze-out with acetone immediately. Let it cure overnight, and you'll have a mounting point that is impervious to water and stronger than the original wood block.


Fair winds and tight lines.
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