
*From Al Sargent's [Top 5 Vanguard 15 Rigging Tips](https://medium.com/@alsargent/top-5-vanguard-15-rigging-tips-a479794689c8).*

A proper vang setup is critical in windy and moderate conditions.

* **Windy conditions upwind** (Stamasters at 0–3, or 20' 9"–21' 3" of rake): you need to be able to crank on vang tension to induce mast bend and take camber out of the mainsail.
* **Moderate conditions upwind** (Stamasters at 4–7, or 21' 4"–21' 7" of rake): it's critical to be able to adjust your vang upwind, tensioning in puffs and easing in lulls.

An **8:1 vang setup** — one cascade plus the stock blocks — works well. Granted, the Vanguard 15 [class rules](/articles/rules/) let you create boom vangs with 12:1 tension (two cascades plus the stock 3:1 blocks). But in practice those are tough to set up right — so an 8:1 vang is a good place to start. If you have the time and patience, set up the 12:1 version — cranking on lots of vang is fast in heavy air; you'll need an extra [Harken 404 16mm single block](https://www.harken.com/en/shop/16-mm/16-mm-block/) for the additional cascade.

![A single piece of 1/8" Spectra in a single-cascade vang, with a mark indicating max tight](/images/guides/rigging/vang-cascade.jpg)

*One single piece of 1/8" Spectra, single cascade system. Note the mark on the vang indicating max tight.*

## What You'll Need

* [Wichard D shackle](https://marine.wichard.com/en/stainless-steel-hardware/shackles/self-locking-shackles/d-shackles) big enough to fit over the boom strap
* [Harken 304 38mm wire bullet block](https://www.harken.com/en/shop/wire-high-strength/38-mm-wire-block/) (attaches to the Wichard D shackle above)
* 1/8" (3mm) [Spectra](https://www.yalecordage.com/ultrex) line, around 20 feet (rope is cheap; when in doubt, buy extra)
* [Harken 405 16mm block with becket](https://www.harken.com/en/shop/16-mm/16-mm-block-becket/)
* [Harken 244 22mm fiddle block with V-Jam](https://www.harken.com/en/shop/micro/22-mm-fiddle-block-v-jam/)
* [Ronstan RF78 swivel shackle](https://www.ronstan.com/us/products/stainless-fittings/shackles/swivel.html), attaches to the Harken 244 above
* [Wichard D shackle](https://marine.wichard.com/en/stainless-steel-hardware/shackles/self-locking-shackles/d-shackles) to attach the Ronstan RF78 to the mast
* [Zip ties](https://www.amazon.com/Cables-43036-Cable-Ties-4-inch/dp/B0002GX1XA/) to fasten shackles
* Tool to tighten shackles
* [Sharpie waterproof permanent marker](https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Marker-Point-Black/dp/B000I0TZO4/)
* [Electrical tape](https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Electrical-75-Inch-66-Feet/dp/B00004WCCL/)

## Build It Strong Enough to Jibe Loaded

It's important to ensure the vang system is strong enough to withstand heavy-air jibes fully tensioned. You need to be able to confidently throw in a jibe in 25 knots, in a prestart situation when your vang is cranked. The shock loads can be quite high. While it's good to shave weight in some areas, the vang isn't one of those places — weaker "stamped" shackles like those on mainsheet blocks have broken in this application.

Because of this you want **strong, forged Wichard shackles**. The bottom shackle can be a bit smaller than the upper one, since the upper has to fit over a wide boom fitting.

![Beefy bottom shackle connected to swivel, all taped](/images/guides/rigging/vang-bottom-shackle.jpg)

*Bottom shackle connected to swivel, all taped. Note the tab on the shackle pin faces up so it won't catch on jib sheets.*

![A worn shackle — about a millimeter of stainless steel worn away at the bearing point after 50 race days](/images/guides/rigging/worn-shackle.jpg)

*About one millimeter of stainless steel worn away at the bearing point after 50 race days over two seasons. This is why you need a beefy Wichard shackle.*

You want a Harken 304 wire bullet block, which has a higher breaking strength than standard Harken bullet blocks. The 304s have a **working load of 1,500 pounds**, enough to accommodate shock loads on jibes. In contrast, standard wire bullet blocks carry about 500 pounds and Harken Carbos about 330 pounds. Maybe those can handle shock loads — but better not to find out the hard way.

![Harken wire bullet block plus Wichard shackle, taped](/images/guides/rigging/wire-bullet-block.jpg)

## Rigging Steps

1. **Blocks and swivel:** Fasten the Harken wire bullet block to the boom so the shackle pin handle faces up — this makes it less likely to scratch the crew. For the bottom part of the system, have the shackle handle pointing up. This means one less place for the jib sheets to catch in a tack.
2. **Vang rope:** Tie a hitch through the bottom vang block (the one with a cleat) with your Spectra line. Pass one end through the Harken wire bullet block, then down to the stock vang block (the one without a cleat). Tie the line to the vang block with a bowline.
3. **Adjustment:** Adjust the hitch so the upper vang block is about a foot from the bottom vang block with the boom horizontal. This uses less rope (less weight and windage), gives you enough "throw" to really tighten the vang in heavy air without two-blocking, and lets you fully ease the vang so the boat doesn't capsize on the dolly, ramp, or dock.
4. **Tail:** Pass the other end through the turning points on the two blocks, eventually exiting at the cleat. Tie a bowline at the end for the skipper to use while hiking out upwind. The bowline should reach the jib cleat but be no longer — otherwise there's a risk of the vang tail getting sucked into the mainsheet block.

Before starts in moderate conditions (4–7 on the Stamasters / 21' 4"–21' 7" rake), toss the tail of the vang over the starboard side of the hull so you can easily access it coming off the starting line. Many times we've come off the line with the vang eased a bit, for more power in a lull. Then when a puff hits, we crank on the vang and immediately get 3 degrees higher point, start lifting off the boats to leeward and pinching off the boats to windward. Money.

Once everything is set up, crank down the shackles with a tool, then zip tie them shut — you won't have to worry about your vang coming apart all season. Then tape all shackles and ring dings so the crew doesn't get scraped.

> [!TIP]
> When you head out with your new vang, mark the line at "max tight" so you can quickly replicate settings before leeward mark roundings in heavy air and focus on hiking.


Boom Vang Upgrade


*From Al Sargent's [Top 5 Vanguard 15 Rigging Tips](https://medium.com/@alsargent/top-5-vanguard-15-rigging-tips-a479794689c8).*

Vanguard 15s come with 3:1 jib halyard adjusters with a "horn cleat". These are problematic for two reasons:

1. **Light/moderate breeze:** The optimal jib halyard setting seems to be when the leeward shroud just barely goes slack in puffs. To find this optimal setting, you need to try many different settings. Having to constantly untie a halyard from a horn cleat burns up a lot of pre-start time.
2. **Windy conditions:** You need to crank on a lot of jib halyard tension. A 3:1 system makes it harder to get enough.

The solution is to replace the horn cleat with a clam cleat and set up the jib fine-tune with a **4:1 system**, tucking the tail through the vang bail and tying a bowline at the end.

## What You'll Need

* [Aluminum Clamcleat CL211 MK2](https://www.clamcleat.com/racing-junior-mk2-3.html) (anodized MK2AN version) for the jib halyard line
* About 15 feet of 1/8" (3mm) [Vectran](https://www.yalecordage.com/vectrus) rope

## Setup

You want a clam cleat with the same hole positions as the stock horn cleat — you should be able to use the same screws to mount it.

Use **Vectran, not Spectra** — Spectra "creeps," meaning it stretches gradually over time. Vectran is also less slippery, allowing it to hold better in a clam cleat.

![Vectran-core line with high-friction cover, plus the clam cleat for the halyard](/images/guides/rigging/jib-halyard-cleat.jpg)

*Vectran-core line with high-friction cover, plus the clam cleat for the halyard. (The Velocitek shown isn't class legal — photo predates the ban.)*

This setup lets you find the optimal jib halyard setting in light and moderate breeze, by intentionally rigging it on the loose side, then pulling it on bit by bit until the leeward shroud barely goes slack in puffs. Since all you need to do is luff the sails, pull on the fine-tune bowline, and sheet in again, you can find the optimal position within a couple of minutes.

In breezy conditions, having 4:1 on the jib halyard makes it easier to get enough halyard tension without heading to the dock.


Jib Halyard Upgrade


This guide covers the unpacking, assembly, and rigging of the Vanguard 15. Whether you have a classic Vanguard-built hull or a newer LaserPerformance model, these instructions will get you on the water safely.

## 1. Preparation

### Tools Needed
*   White electrical tape
*   2 adjustable wrenches and/or pliers

### Unpacking
Unpack the major parts and lay them out on a soft surface (grass or carpet) to avoid scratching the gelcoat.
*   **Hull**
*   **Mast Kit:** Rigged mast, rigged boom.
*   **Boat Kit:** Tiller/Hiking Stick, Daggerboard, Rudder.
*   **Line Bag:** Jib sheet, Mainsheet, Daggerboard shockcord.

> [!TIP]
> All lines provided are long enough for maximum purchase. You may customize lengths later, but be sure to cut and burn ends to prevent fraying.

## 2. Assembly & Rigging

### Daggerboard Shockcord
Locate the daggerboard shockcord in the line bag. Attach each end to the eyestraps that secure the forward end of the hiking straps. Make sure your knots are very tight; shockcord unties easily.

### Assembling the Mast
The mast comes rigged except for the spreaders.
1.  **Prepare:** Remove tape and untie halyards. Secure them loosely so they aren't lost.
2.  **Check Halyard:** Ensure the **main halyard** (aft side of masthead) is **aft** of the spreader brackets. All other rigging should be forward.
3.  **Install Spreaders:**
    *   Slide the end with two holes into the mast brackets (thin edge facing aft).
    *   Install clevis pins and cotter rings.
    *   **Tape:** Tape over the cotter rings to prevent snagging sails.
4.  **Attach Shrouds:**
    *   Remove the pin from the outboard end of the spreader.
    *   Place the shroud into the spreader tip.
    *   Reinsert the pin and clip.
    *   **Verify:** Ensure no rigging is trapped between the shroud and spreader.

### Stepping the Mast
*Two people are recommended.*
1.  **Check Overhead:** **LOOK UP!** Ensure there are no power lines.
2.  **Lift:** Place the mast heel against a solid object (or have a helper hold it). Walk the mast up hand-over-hand.
3.  **Rotate:** Ensure the track faces the stern.
4.  **Step:** Lift the mast high and guide the heel onto the deck step. Align the slot with the pin.
5.  **Attach Shrouds:**
    *   Helper holds the mast.
    *   Attach the shrouds to the chainplates using the pins/adjusters.
6.  **Attach Headstay:** Lean the mast forward against the shrouds and shackle the headstay to the bow fitting. Tighten just enough to keep the mast up; the jib halyard will provide the real tension.

### Rigging the Boom
1.  **Gooseneck:** Attach the forward end of the boom to the gooseneck on the mast using the fast pin.
2.  **Mainsheet Bridle:**
    *   Pass the thick end of the mainsheet through the boom blocks and down to the ratchet block.
    *   Attach the thinner bridle ends to the eyestraps on the stern deck.
    *   **Adjust:** Center the mainsheet splice on the centerline for best performance.
3.  **Vang:** Shackle the vang block to the bail on the underside of the boom.

## 3. Sail Controls

### Jib
1.  **Tack:** Pin the jib tack to the bow fitting (aft of the headstay).
2.  **Sheets:** Find the middle of the jib sheet. Pass it through the clew grommet and loop the tails through it (cow hitch). Lead sheets back to the fairleads.
3.  **Halyard:** Attach the shackle to the head. Hoist.
    *   **Tension:** The jib halyard replaces the headstay for tension. Hook the purchase system into the wire loop near the deck and tension the rig. The headstay should go slack.

### Mainsail
1.  **Battens:** Install the top batten (thin end first).
2.  **Clew:** Slide the clew slug into the boom track.
3.  **Tack:** Pin the tack to the gooseneck.
4.  **Hoist:** Attach the main halyard and hoist. Feed the luff rope into the track.
5.  **Cunningham:** Run the line from the port side of the mast, up through the sail grommet, and down to the starboard cleat.
6.  **Outhaul:** Run from the boom end, through the clew, back to the boom end, and forward to the cleat.

## 4. Launching

*   **Rudder:** Attach to gudgeons. Ensure the retaining clip clicks into place.
*   **Daggerboard:** Slide into the trunk. Use the shockcord to hold it up/down.
*   **Drain Plugs:** **CHECK THEM!**

## 5. Care & Maintenance
*   **Rinse:** Always rinse the boat and hardware with fresh water after sailing in salt water.
*   **Dry:** Let sails dry before rolling.
*   **Cover:** Use a top cover to protect from UV damage.
*   **Trailers:** Don't support the hull on rollers; use bunks to spread the load.

> [!WARNING]
> **Towing:** Do not tow the V15 at high speeds (max 6 knots). Hull damage from high-speed towing is not covered by warranty.

## Additional Resources
*   [Legacy V15 Rigging Manual (PDF)](/guides/rigging/v15-rigging-manual.pdf): The earlier edition of the rigging manual, for reference.


Vanguard 15 Rigging Manual


*From Al Sargent's [Top 5 Vanguard 15 Rigging Tips](https://medium.com/@alsargent/top-5-vanguard-15-rigging-tips-a479794689c8).*

Like telltales, shockcord is a low-cost yet essential enhancement to your V15 setup. You need shockcord in three places.

## What You'll Need

* Around 20 feet of thin shockcord, around 1/8" or 3/16" — [5mm shockcord](https://westcoastsailing.net/5mm-shockcord/) works well. Solid elastomer lasts longer than traditional bungee and exerts more return force.

## 1. Headstay

You need shockcord to keep the headstay from messing with the jib telltales. Two strands of shockcord is the right amount; one strand doesn't exert enough force to keep the headstay out of the way, and three or more strands is overkill, adding too much weight and windage to the bow. (That said, solid elastomer has greater return force, so one strand might suffice. Boat optimization is often a journey of experimentation.)

**Setup:** Rig up the jib with your mast in the max forward position (9 on the Stamasters / 21' 9.5" rake) and tie the shockcord so it barely keeps the headstay tight. By doing this, you ensure the shockcord will still allow you to put the mast into the max rake position (0 on the Stamasters / 20' 9" rake).

## 2. Hiking Straps

One of the keys to fast tacks is to always have your straps in the same position, so your feet can slip right into a hiking position. Shockcord is critical for doing this.

You need shockcord in three places. From back to front:

1. **Forward crew straps:** Shockcord to hold up the forward end of the crew hiking straps, using the aft portion of the mast step. Two loops for each strap, going through the aft pin on the mast step.

![Shockcord for forward crew straps — two loops through the aft pin on the mast step](/images/guides/rigging/shockcord-straps.jpg)

*Two loops for each strap, going through the aft pin on the mast step. Note how the straps are taut and well-elevated.*

2. **Center:** Shockcord to hold the crew and skipper straps next to each other, and hold them up using the handrail. Keep shockcord away from the mainsheet ratchet to minimize the potential for the mainsheet to get caught.
3. **Aft skipper straps:** Shockcord to hold up the aft end of the skipper straps, using a loop just under the tiller.

## 3. Mainsheet

You need shockcord holding back the aft portions of the mainsheet tails, to keep the mainsheet from twisting — which ensures you can ease it upwind.

This really matters. Case in point: one of my most embarrassing Vanguard 15 races was in a windy Nationals race long ago. Because I didn't tie the mainsheet shockcord long enough, I had to depower by feathering the jib — not fast in the short Berkeley Circle chop. When it came time to duck boats, my mainsheet couldn't ease and I had to do a crash tack to avoid hitting a boat on starboard. After we did our 360, we were in last. All due to a silly little shockcord adjustment that I got wrong.

Setting up the shockcord loops at the midpoint of the aft inspection port works well.

![Shockcord loops aligned with the midpoint of the aft inspection port](/images/guides/rigging/shockcord-inspection-port.jpg)

![Two separate shockcords, each tied around either side of the pintle](/images/guides/rigging/shockcord-pintle.jpg)

*Two separate shockcords, each tied around either side of the pintle.*


Shockcord Placement


*From Al Sargent's [Top 5 Vanguard 15 Rigging Tips](https://medium.com/@alsargent/top-5-vanguard-15-rigging-tips-a479794689c8), tuned for San Francisco's Clipper Cove conditions (10–20 knots, flat water, 2–3 minute upwind legs).*

Having your rake adjusted properly is critical for breaking away on the starting line. The stock Vanguard 15 shroud adjusters provide a number of barriers to getting the right rake.

**First**, they take a long time to change. This makes it hard to try out different settings to find what works best. Evening winds typically start strong and gradually fade as sunset gets closer, making it imperative to reduce rake (rake forward) to put more power into your rig as the evening wears on. Since your race committee may start a new three-minute sequence when the last boat crosses the line, you might have just one or two minutes, up until the two-minute gun, to change your rig.

**Second**, they're unsafe in windy conditions, because there's a moment when the leeward pin is completely disconnected. If you were to capsize while on port when your shroud is connected, and right your boat on starboard, your rig would fall over.

## What You'll Need

* [Sta-Master shroud adjusters](https://velasailingsupply.com/products/sta-master-calibrated-shroud-adjuster-1-8-wire-x-1-4-pin), along with shorter shrouds
* 2 [zip ties](https://www.amazon.com/Cables-43036-Cable-Ties-4-inch/dp/B0002GX1XA/) to go around the Stamasters
* Wrenches and screwdriver to swap out shrouds
* [Sharpie waterproof permanent marker](https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Marker-Point-Black/dp/B000I0TZO4/)
* [Electrical tape](https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Electrical-75-Inch-66-Feet/dp/B00004WCCL/) or rig wrap ([self-bonding rigging tape](https://www.boatoutfitters.com/rigging-tape-self-bonding-1-x-15ft-white))

## Setup

When you buy Stamasters, you'll need shorter shrouds than what ships with a stock V15. These should measure **14 feet, 0.75 inches (428.6 cm)**, measured pin-to-pin — from the pin that attaches to the top of the mast, to the pin that attaches to the top of the Stamasters. Also you'll need clevis pins to connect the shrouds to the Stamasters — 13/32" long x 3/16" diameter works well. It's good to have pins that aren't so wide that they'll catch on the crew's clothing or a loose jib sheet. [Svendsen's](https://www.svendsens.com/) rigging shop in Alameda can make a pair of shrouds, including Stamasters, for around half the price of ordering elsewhere.

![Measuring shrouds at a rigging shop — center of pin lines up with the tape](/images/guides/rigging/shroud-measuring.jpg)

*Measuring shrouds at the rigging shop. Since the tape measure started at 40', these shrouds are 14' 1.125". The author prefers 14' 0.75" to get a bit more rake in heavy air.*

When you rig up your Stamasters, make sure that the numbers are facing the centerline of the boat so that it's easy to read them when adjusting the shrouds on the water.

## Zip-Tie the Plates

Put one zip tie on the base of each Stamaster, to hold the two metal slats tight together (but not so tight that you cannot crank the Stamaster down to zero — max rake, around 20' 9" from masthead to aft corner of deck). This provides a couple of benefits:

1. **Consistency:** when determining your rig settings, you eliminate any variance due to one Stamaster having a "wide stance" and the other a "narrow stance."
2. **Durability:** when it's windy and you have a lot of rig tension (around 900 pounds), keeping the slats together means less torque on the pin holding the Stamasters to the hull, and thus a lower likelihood of breaking the pin.

![Zip tie holding the plates of a Stamaster together](/images/guides/rigging/stamaster-zip-tie.jpg)

Once the shrouds are set up, tape up the pins and ring dings with electrical tape.

![Taped up pins so nothing catches on the crew's clothes](/images/guides/rigging/taped-pins.jpg)

## Speed Up Your Adjustments

A small but important finishing touch is to mark the deck, just aft of each shroud adjuster, showing which direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise) tightens the shroud. It's also good to spray the shroud threads with teflon lubricant periodically so they're easier and quicker to turn.

![An "Arrow T" marked next to each shroud for adjustments without futzing](/images/guides/rigging/deck-arrow-mark.jpg)

These last two steps matter because often you only have a short time between races to adjust your shrouds. Having the right adjustment can make the difference between flying off the start line and getting blown back. You and your partner need to be like a NASCAR pit crew to make adjustments. Remember: in a three-minute sequence you're not allowed to adjust your shrouds after two minutes; in a five-minute sequence, no adjustments after four minutes.

Time how long it takes to make your shroud adjustments and keep making refinements to speed things up. Try to get it down to **60 seconds**.

Lastly, be sure you understand which settings are rake forward and which are rake back. The **higher the numbers, the more rake forward** — better for light air since it provides more power. For heavy air you want lower numbers to shed excess power. Seems obvious, but get it backwards and it's not fun sailing in light air with a raked-back rig.


Shroud Adjusters (Stamasters)


*From Al Sargent's [Top 5 Vanguard 15 Rigging Tips](https://medium.com/@alsargent/top-5-vanguard-15-rigging-tips-a479794689c8).*

Those of us who sailed collegiately are probably familiar with applying telltales in key locations. Vanguard 15s are no different. Here are three recommended locations.

## What You'll Need

* [Cassette tape](https://www.amazon.com/Maxell-UR-90-Blank-Audio-Cassette/dp/B000087NBW/) (buy several — these are hard to find now)
* [Electrical tape](https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Electrical-75-Inch-66-Feet/dp/B00004WCCL/)

## 1. Shrouds

Tie telltales on the shrouds, around a foot above where the boom touches them. This makes it easy for the skipper to see when steering downwind. A combination clove hitch plus one half hitch works well. Replace the cassette tape every couple of months before it breaks on its own.

**How to use the shroud telltales when sailing wing-on-wing:**

* **Header:** Watch telltales to show when you get a header. When this happens, ease the jib sheet to keep the jib from collapsing while at the same time steering downwind. Once back downwind, pull the jib sheet back to its usual position.
* **Lift:** Watch telltales for indicators of a lift. When this happens, you'll want to jibe if possible, since sailing a V15 by the lee is slow. If you can't jibe, then head up to get back to a downwind course.
* **Optimal angle:** It's fastest to sail as high as possible wing-on-wing without the jib collapsing. Use your telltales to determine when you're close to that angle without your jib becoming unstable.

## 2. Lower Jib Luff

Use electrical tape to stick telltales a couple of inches above the stock jib telltale position, below the second seam, about one inch from the luff wire. Telltales in this position indicate luffing more quickly than the stock telltales. Cassette tape responds a bit quicker than wool telltales. Keep the tape smooth to prevent the telltales from catching.

![Lower telltales above and forward of the stock telltales, just below the second sail seam](/images/guides/rigging/jib-telltales.jpg)

*The lower telltales sit above and forward of the stock telltales, just below the second seam, plus middle telltales just below the third seam. Here the boat is footing out from under a boat that rolled it, so the telltales stream straight back.*

**How to use the lower jib telltales:**

* **Straight-line speed:** keep the inside telltale at a 45-degree angle to the horizon.
* **Pinching:** keep the inside telltale pointed straight up.
* **Footing or planing upwind:** keep the inside telltale streaming straight back.

## 3. Middle Jib Luff

Use electrical tape to stick telltales midway up the sail, between the stock upper and lower telltales. Just below the third seam works well. As with the lower telltale, place these about an inch from the luff wire.

**How to use the middle jib telltales:**

* **Start acceleration:** When accelerating for the start, you'll typically bear away onto a close reach in the final seconds. When this happens, your crew should trim to the middle telltale. (If they trim to the lower telltale, the top of the jib will luff and lose power.)
* **Reaching:** When sailing the offset leg or a reach, the crew should trim to the middle telltale.
* **Lulls:** If your crew is close in height to the skipper, or taller, the skipper can drive to the middle telltale upwind if the crew comes in in a lull. This lets you keep the boat in the groove at all times without shifting position.


Rigging Guides